May. 13, 2024
Electronica Magnetic Scale
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Mill kits
$88000
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Electronica Magnetic Scale
Lathe kits
$98500
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Welcome
to DRO PROS, the Digital Readout Experts.
If you're looking for a digital readout system (DRO) for your lathe
or milling machine, you've come to the right place.
The longer you look around the internet, you'll soon find that we
provide the best customer service, the best product, and the best
value for your money. We specialize in producing videos for our
products that show you step by step how to choose, install, and
operate them. We have hundreds of photos showing
our customers installations, located
HERE. But best of all, we actually talk
and spend time with our customers. Confused or don't know
what to buy? Call us now at (707) 452-8434 and talk to
any of our knowledgeable sales staff and get the right machine or
digital readout today!
Lifetime
Warranty on Magnetic DRO Kits
For over a
decade, DRO PROS has been proud to sell the Electronica brand
Digital Readout kits for lathes and milling machines. In over 10
years, we've never had a magnetic scale malfunction. Therefore, it
just seems right to offer the most incredible never seen before
warranty on the best DRO kit on the planet. Buy a magnetic DRO kit
from us and you'll never have to worry about buying a replacement
anything, ever.
What Size
Kit should I Buy?
Simply
purchase a kit that has travels longer than the travel of your
machine.
For a mill,
simply purchase a kit that has travels longer than the travel of
your machine.
As an example,
a Bridgeport milling machine with a 9" x 42" table typically has 12"
travel in the Y axis and 30" travel in the X axis. Therefore you
would need an 12" x 30" mill kit for this machine.
For a lathe,
all you need is a kit that has enough travel for the X (cross slide)
and the Z (carriage) axis travel.
Don't be
confused by the swing, which is the theoretically largest diameter
object that can pass over the bed rails. The swing dimension has
nothing to do with what you need for your DRO kit. As a general
rule, the cross slide travel is roughly half of the swing plus a
little bit more in order to cut over center. For example, a 1340
lathe (13" swing, 40" between centers) will typically have 13/2 =
6.5 + 1 = 7.5 inches of travel on the cross slide. Therefore you
would need an 8" x 40" lathe kit for this machine. However, with
this said, it's always best to measure the travels of your machine.
Look to the left margin for videos on how to do this.
Magnetic
Scale Physical Sizes
Magnetic
scales are named according to the amount of travel the scales are
built to accommodate. Maximum travel will be ~ 5/8" longer, and
overall length will be 5-1/2" longer than stated scale size. Using a
12" scale as an example, it is designed to fully accommodate 12" of
travel, it's maximum travel will be 12-5/8", and overall length will
be 17-1/2".
MagnaSlim Readheads...
Electronica has released their new line of MagnaSlim magnetic
scales. With the readhead measuring less than 1/2" x 1/2", this is
the smallest readhead on the market, designed to fit where others
can't! Of course it's IP-67 rated, meaning it's coolant and dust
proof. Available in both 1 micron (0.00005") and 5 micron (0.0002")
resolutions. These amazing readheads are perfect for mounting on the
cross slide of lathes, or on benchtop mills or lathes.
Things to
consider when buying a DRO:
In general,
there are two main factors to consider when buying a DRO. First is
scale type, and second, is display type. DRO PROS sells both glass
and magnetic scales. Glass is popular because it's the least
expensive, but it can (and frequently does) get contaminated from
oil and debris. Magnetic scales are superior because they are
coolant and dust proof. Further, they are slimmer, and can be cut to
any length you want, making installation much easier.
Glass Scales - Inexpensive, but not coolant or dust proof. Cannot be cut to
length. Only available as "Incremental" style.
Magnetic
Scales - Coolant and dust proof, they can't be contaminated. Can be cut to length. Available in
"Incremental" or "Absolute" style scales. Absolute scales are the best, because
they never lose position, even if power is lost or the machine is moved with the
power to the display turned off.
Capacitive
Scales - You may see inexpensive digital scales being sold and/or marketed
as magnetic, when in fact, they are not. For example, most digital calipers use
capacitive linear encoders. The downside to capacitive technology is that it's
susceptible to error when exposed to oils, dirt or low temperatures.
Unfortunately, unscrupulous resellers often refer to their scales as magnetic,
when in fact, they are not. More information can be found on Wikipedia
HERE.
DRO Display
Types:
DRO displays
are available in 2, 3 and 4 axis kits. The screen is either an LED
or LCD type. LED displays can only show numbers (like a calculator),
and are therefore less expensive. LCD displays are much like a
computer screen, and can graphically draw functions in color,
allowing you to see what you programmed, before you cut it. Our
EL700 display interfaces extremely well with our touch probe, making
it our best DRO display ever!
Electronica
Magnetic Digital Readout Kits
Our
Electronica kits come with magnetic scales,
which are coolant and dust proof. Easy to use, with the
clearest display we've ever seen! So what does Magnetic Scale
technology mean to you? Unlike glass scales, magnetic scales can be
cut to any length you need, they can't be contaminated, and they're
the easiest, thinnest scale to mount on the planet - only .4" thick!
Magnetic scale
technology combines the best of optical and inductive technology.
Just like inductive or "ball scales", magnetic scales are impervious
to coolant or liquid, yet are slimmer, and cost half as much!
They're easier to mount, more durable, and on par pricewise with
optical scales. In summary, magnetic scales combine all the
advantages of the other technologies, without retaining the negative
qualities of being higher priced, or
difficult to install, that inductive or "ball scales" suffer from.
If that wasn't
enough, the Electronica bracket kits are the best we've ever seen.
Unlike the competitors bracket kits, Electronica brackets are
individually machined for accuracy, not cast. Our Library page
includes a complete parts list and exploded assembly diagram - in
short, no more missing parts or time consuming "how does this
bracket fit together" sessions!
Electronica
Magnetic Scale 2 Axis Mill Kits:
Determining Magnetic Scale Length.
Magnetic scales are named according to the amount of
travel the scales are built to accommodate. This is the
value you should use to match the travel of your
machine. As a sidenote, maximum
travel will be ~ 5/8" longer, and overall length will be
5-1/2" longer than stated scale size. Using a 12" scale
as an example, it is designed to fully accommodate 12"
of travel, it's maximum travel will be 12-5/8", and
overall length will be 17-1/2".
Electronica
Magnetic Scale 3 Axis Mill Kits:
Determining Magnetic Scale Length.
Magnetic scales are named according to the amount of
travel the scales are built to accommodate. This is the
value you should use to match the travel of your
machine. As a sidenote, maximum
travel will be ~ 5/8" longer, and overall length will be
5-1/2" longer than stated scale size. Using a 12" scale
as an example, it is designed to fully accommodate 12"
of travel, it's maximum travel will be 12-5/8", and
overall length will be 17-1/2".
Electronica
Magnetic Scale 4 Axis Mill Kits:
Determining Magnetic Scale Length.
Magnetic scales are named according to the amount of
travel the scales are built to accommodate. This is the
value you should use to match the travel of your
machine. As a sidenote, maximum
travel will be ~ 5/8" longer, and overall length will be
5-1/2" longer than stated scale size. Using a 12" scale
as an example, it is designed to fully accommodate 12"
of travel, it's maximum travel will be 12-5/8", and
overall length will be 17-1/2".
Electronica
300 Series "Universal" 3 Axis Mill Display:
- The display does not
have "Quick Zero" buttons like the 400 model.
- The lower eight function
keys are not mill specific like the 400 model.
- The 300 model does
not
have a "Touch Probe" port like the 400 model.
Electronica
400 "Machine Specific" 3 Axis Mill Display:
- The front display has
"Quick Zero" buttons for the X, Y and Z axis.
- The lower eight function
keys are mill specific.
- Includes an interactive
"Touch Probe" port on the back.
Electronica
700 Color TFT LCD 3 Axis Mill Display w/ LED
Backlight:
- Color LCD Touch
Screen
- Graphic Display draws
functions
- Can be configured for
a lathe or mill
- Includes an
interactive "Touch Probe" port on the back
- Kit can be ordered
with the Z axis configured for the Quill or the Knee
EL700 Color LCD in the ABS mode:
EL700 Color LCD Arc
Function:
EL700 Color LCD Bolt
Hole Function:
EL700 Color LCD Line
Hole Function:
EL700 Color LCD
Grid Hole Function:
EL700 Color LCD
Pocket Function:
EL700 Color LCD
Optional Touch Probe:
- axis datum capture
- measure distance
- measure single or
dual angle
- find center of
circle on internal or external pieces
EL700 Color LCD
Touch Probe (continued):
- measure step height
- measure step width
- measure outside
width
- measure inside width
EL700 Color LCD
Polar Coordinates Function:
Electronica
400 "Machine Specific" 4 Axis Mill Display:
- The lower eight function
keys are mill specific.
- The front display has
"Quick Zero" buttons for the X, Y and Z axis.
- Z axis Summing Function.
Electronica
700 Color LCD 4 Axis Mill Display:
- Our most powerful,
brightest
display!
- Easiest to read
touch screen
- Simple and intuitive
interface
- Sealed Color LCD panel
- Fully interactive
"Touch Probe" port on the back
- Built in mill and lathe
functions - vector, summing, taper etc
- U axis can be shown
independently or summed with the X axis to sum the knee and quill movement
- Z and U axis
summed together to automatically report vertical (knee and quill) movement:
Electronica
Magnetic Scale 2 Axis Lathe Kits:
Electronica
Magnetic Scale 3 Axis Lathe Kits:
Electronica
300 Series "Universal" 2 Axis Lathe Display:
- The proper
terminology for describing a lathes axis are X and Z.
- This display has X,
Y and Z buttons on the front panel.
- Only the X and Y
keys and display windows are functional.
- The back of the
display only has connections for the X and Y axis.
- The display does
not
have "Quick Zero" buttons like the 400 model.
- The lower eight
function keys are not lathe specific like the 400 model.
Electronica
400 "Machine Specific" 2 Axis Lathe Display:
- The proper
terminology for describing a lathes axis are X and Z.
- This display has the
'proper' X and Z buttons on the front panel.
- The back of the
display has the proper connections for the X and Z axis.
- The front display
has "Quick Zero" buttons for both the X and Z axis.
- The lower eight
function keys are lathe specific.
Electronica
700 Color LCD 3 Axis Lathe Display:
- Our most powerful
display
- Easiest to read
bright Color LCD panel
- Simple and intuitive
interface
- Sealed touch screen
panel
- Built in lathe
functions - vector, summing, taper etc
EL700
Color LCD Summing Mode:
- shown with both X
and Z axis in summing mode
- X or Z axis can be
individually configured to sum with the compound, or Z' axis
EL700
Color LCD Vector Function:
- Compound or vector
angle can be independently set to any value
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EL700 Color LCD Vector Function:
- moving just the compound or top slide automatically updates both the X and Z position
EL700 Color LCD display in Taper Mode:
Electronica Magnetic Scale 300 Displays:
The 300 display is a "universal" display. In other words, whether it's put on a lathe, a 2 axis mill or even a 3 axis mill, it's physically the same display. The display always has X, Y and Z keys, even if it's for a 2 axis mill. The buttons, or keys, are not lathe or mill specific, although the display can perform most all of the same functions as its big brother, the 400. Instead of machine specific keys, however, you must navigate the menu to find specific functions.
Electronica Magnetic Scale 400 Displays:
400 displays are all "machine specific". In other words, the mill and lathe displays are distinctly different. The axis keys (X, Y and Z) specifically match the machine. The function buttons, or keys, are also machine specific, which makes for a more intuitive, easier to use interface. The yellow front panel also adds "one-touch zero keys" the 300 does not have. Additionally, the back of the 400 has a contact probe input jack.
Benefits of Magnetic Scales
Magnetic Scales Glass Scales Inductive Scales Profile 1-1/4" height 2-1/8" height 2-7/8" height Ease of installation Flat scale "bar" easily mounts directly to machine Scale and readhead joined together ? cannot be disassembled Round "bar" must be offset / cannot be mounted flat against the machine Price Complete kit starts at only $760 ~ $700 $1,500 + Cost to repair Readhead and / or scale can be purchased separately Readhead and scale must be purchased as a complete assembly Parts extremely expensive Resistance to contaminants Impervious to contaminants Optical technology susceptible to contamination Impervious to contaminants Can scales be cut to a custom length? Yes No No Scale durability Virtually indestructible Glass prone to breakage, contamination Rod susceptible to damage Overall length 2.5" longer than travel 5" longer than travel 10" longer than travel Upgradeable software Convenient USB Not available Not available Bracket system Powder coated black, custom brackets "Universal brackets" require extensive modification Complicated bracket system must be "offset"There are currently three different scale types available for digital readout systems. They are magnetic, glass, and inductive. Glass scales rely upon an optical encoder and receiver mounted inside of an aluminum extrusion. If the scale becomes contaminated by coolant, oil or dust, they are rendered useless.
Inductive scales are impervious to contamination. The disadvantages are they're bulky, expensive, and difficult to mount.
Magnetic scales combine the best of optical and inductive technology. Magnetic scales are impervious to coolant, liquid or dust, yet are slimmer than either of the other two technologies. They're easier to mount, more durable, and can be broken down into convenient lengths for shipping. The first thing customers notice with magnetic scales is that the readhead and the scale are completely separate components. This means mounting magnetic scales is easier than any other type scale - since the readhead mounts separately from the scale, mounting is much quicker, and a whole lot easier! Prior to Electronica, magnetic scales were prohibitively expensive. Today, they are on par pricewise with optical scales. In summary, magnetic scales hold all the advantages of the other technologies, without retaining the negative qualities of being higher priced or difficult to install that inductive scales suffer from.
Picture of a New Glass Scale:
Picture of a new glass scale. Notice the mirror finish along the walls inside the scale.
Picture of a Glass Scale that's been improperly used in a contaminated environment:
Picture of a glass scale contaminated by hundreds of debris particles after being placed in service less than 3 months. The inside of this scale should be a mirror shiny finish, as shown above. Even a single bit of debris can cause a glass scale to stop reading correctly. Unfortunately, a contaminated glass scale will continue to display position, albeit an incorrect one, leaving the operator unaware of the malfunction. The solution, of course, is to use magnetic scales. Magnetic scales are designed to operate in the harshest and most extreme environments. Not only are magnetic scales unaffected by debris or contamination, they're also protected against submersion in coolant or liquids.
The height or head dimension of the readhead is critical to a clean DRO installation. Magnetic scale technology eliminates the bulky optical sensors common to traditional readheads.
A slim design means the readhead can be mounted close to the machine, increasing travel and tool efficiency.
Slimmer profile readheads are also much less likely to get damaged from dropped tools or workpieces.
Magnetic readheads retain the advantage of being impervious to coolant, but aren't bulky or expensive like inductive or optical scales.
The overall required mounting height is much less than optical or inductive scales.
Magnetic scale height is less than half that of inductive scales.
"Required End Clearance" is the 'dead space' between the center of the readhead and the end of the scale. The more "Required End Clearance" a scale requires, the longer the scale becomes.
Electronica vs. DRO PROS vs. Easson vs. Fagor
How Do I Choose the Right DRO Kit?
To start with, all DRO PROS products are quality built to do the job right. However, with that said, each brand has it's own unique advantages. We know that choosing a DRO kit can be difficult, so in our endeavor to help our customers we've developed the following guidelines. While we try to be as impartial as we can, our interaction with our customers and their feedback has certainly influenced us greatly in forming our "opinions". Please keep in mind that every installation is different, only you can know what's best for you.
Electronica
PROS: The most technologically advanced DRO kit on the market today. For starters, the Electronica kit uses magnetic scales. Magnetic scales are impervious to coolant or liquid, and are slimmer than glass or inductive scales. They're easier to mount, more durable, and can be cut to any length you need. They can't be contaminated, and measure only .4" thick. The bracket kits are exceptional, being machined, not cast, and are anodized black for a professional finish.
CONS: Such an incredible deal you may end up buying more than just one!
COMMENTS: DRO PROS hits another home run! Affordable, built to last, and one of the best looking, easiest to use displays we've seen.
WHY YOU WOULD CHOOSE ELECTRONICA: If you value quality, ease of installation, and don't want your scales to get contaminated, this is the kit for you!
eBay "El Cheapo" vs. DRO PROS
But I can still save $5 and get an eBay special from some guy I can't understand or talk to!
Yes, we understand. We all want to get 'a bargain'. But trust us, you don't want to go there. Besides the fact you can't talk to these guys if you have a question, they don't provide a written warranty, if something breaks you can't get replacement parts, etc. etc, might we suggest you consider the quality of the manual?
We've all seen the eBay specials where the listing includes an English manual. But have you actually read the "English Manual" included with our competitors kit? Of course you haven't. Because if you did, you probably wouldn't buy the kit. But in order to see the manual, you'd first have to buy the kit. Quite the dilemma. Well, we have a solution - we did buy the kit, and we're happy to show you what you really get! Check out the two excerpts below explaining "Bolt Hole Circle", probably the easiest to use (and explain) function on a DRO:
From the DRO PROS 3M Manual:
- Bolt Hole Circle -
From the Competitions Manual:
- Bolt Hole Circle -
(Click on the documents above to open them up)
(Make sure to check out the first remark on the last page of the competitions manual... and no, we didn't make this up - this is the manual you get!!)
So if this is the easiest to explain function, how well do you think their manual explains ARC procedures?
Remember, the very first moment you have a question, DRO PROS customers are going to call our toll free number and get the issue resolved immediately with an English speaking American.
Our competitors customers are going to wonder what in the world they were thinking when they saved $5. You be the judge!
What makes DRO PROS readouts the best? Am I really getting a good deal?
At DRO PROS we get daily emails from suppliers wanting us to hawk their digital readouts. We literally travel worldwide to seek out the best deals for you, our customer. International Trade Show in Beijing? Been there. Taiwan, Korea, Japan, China, you name it, we've been there. And guess what? Our selection of digital readouts represents the finest we've found. Anywhere. Trust us when we say you get what you pay for. We could choose to sell the same DRO's you see on eBay for $50 less, but we choose not to, because we know they won't last and ultimately will cause us and our customers frustration. Still don't believe us? Take a look here at the insides of a very popular DRO currently sold on eBay under various brand names:
(Click on images to enlarge)
Notice how the traces between the touch pads are simply taped in place by hand from leftover scraps - obviously this is much cheaper to manufacture, but how do you suppose this type of display is going to hold up on your machine? As they say, Caveat Emptor or 'Buyer Beware'.
Hopefully this information will help you, our Customer, when choosing your DRO system. Take your time, choose wisely.
What can a DRO do for me?
A digital readout system digitally displays a machine tool's exact position on an electronic display board. A DRO can greatly simplify your work, save time, reduce costly mistakes and allow you to produce more accurate, exacting parts. The DRO unit keeps precise track of tool bit position in all 3 axis - back and forth (x axis), fore and aft (y axis), and up and down (z axis). Without a DRO system, an operator must count the number of hand wheel revolutions to determine exact position of a tool head against the table. For example, some milling machine leadscrews are graduated at 16 threads per inch (TPI), which means that for every turn of the hand wheel the table moves 1/16? (.0625), therefore it takes 16 turns to move the table exactly 1?. Other machines are calibrated at 10 TPI, meaning it takes 10 hand wheel revolutions for the table to travel an inch. On the Z axis, it is typical for each division to represent .002?, where one full revolution is equal to .060?. Needless to say, it can quickly become quite confusing! The bottom line is that with a digital display, the days of counting hand wheel revolutions are over!
In summary, a machine equipped with a digital readout (DRO) is easier to use, less frustrating, and can save the operator many hours in setup and operation time. No more counting turns of the dial - simply turn the display on and you're ready to go - the DRO keeps track of position even after a power shortage!
Why should you buy from DRO PROS?
We speak English - We answer our phones - Same day shipping
Veteran owned, Veteran managed - and proud of it!
Our goal is to make customers for life. We feel that, in the long run, treating customers right will yield much more than simply "going for the sale". In accordance with that, we have attempted to pass on some ideas to help you, the customer, in completing your purchase decision:
Price. Probably the most talked about factor when buying a digital readout. Price can also be the most misleading, and perhaps worst way, to judge a digital readout kit. We've all heard the old adage, "You get what you pay for." Before the internet, it was true, price did generally correlate directly to value. But that was yesterdays economy. All resellers obtained their goods the same way, and therefore incurred the same costs. In today's economy, the market has changed drastically. At DRO PROS, we import and sell directly to you. Unlike our competitors, we do not have Western and Eastern sales divisions and multi layers of management to support. One location, one cost, and the savings get passed on to you!
Intuitiveness or "Ease of Use". Probably the most important, and hardest to determine factor when buying a readout. Think in terms of after the sale. Even if you get an absolute 'rock star' bottom line price that would make William Shatner proud, if the digital readout is not user friendly, you still didn't get a 'deal'. The whole point of getting a digital readout is to make your work easier and more enjoyable. If the digital readout is poorly designed, too complicated, if the display isn't bright enough, or in other words is 'user unfriendly', you'll regret your purchase decision every time you turn it on. It simply won't matter what you paid, it's not worth it!
Support. Most likely the second most important, and perhaps most overlooked factor when buying a digital readout. Imagine trying to reach a technician when you've bought a digital readout from an overseas reseller! Yet every day, people "save" $50 and buy products on eBay without stopping to think what will happen when they need service or tech support. Some digital readout resellers don't even publish a phone number! While our competitors continue to pare down or even totally eliminate their customer support, we continue to expand our Customer Service. Our Video Tutorials are the best in the industry, and are available free for you, our customers. Our tech help is the best in the business - our techs all know our readouts inside and out. Nobody knows digital readouts like DRO PROS!
Warranty. DRO PROS is proud to offer the industries safest, longest, lifetime warranty on all of our Electronica magnetic scale kits. DRO PROS brand warranty claims are handled directly by DRO PROS. No run-arounds, no hassle! Something not working as expected? Call us, don't get redirected overseas like the other guys!
Parts. Can you believe some resellers don't carry parts? That's right, buy from the "other guys", break a scale, and you get to replace the entire digital readout kit! Don't assume you can just go buy a different brand scale, either, because most manufacturers use different connectors on their scales. If that wasn't enough, even among those with a common connector, such as a DB9, most are hard wired differently. Finally, don't overlook the cost of parts. At DRO PROS, an 800mm replacement scale will cost you $197. A similar scale sold extensively by a European company will cost nearly $700! Finally, we have a massive inventory of parts, so rest easy - a replacement part is only a phone call away!
The Best Value. We literally search world-wide for the best value digital readout products on the planet. If there was a better digital readout package to be sold, we would be selling it. Yes, we've seen cheaper units on eBay, but there is a reason they're cheaper. Think poor quality, no parts, no manual, non-existent customer service, poor product fit/finish etc.
Customer Service. We pledge to never "over sell" you on a product that won't work well for you. Our philosophy is to try and save you money and get the best value kit tailored to the machinery you have. Many of our customers are surprised when we recommend against buying a more expensive brand. Again, our philosophy is to build customers for life. Give us a call and let us save you money!
Shipping. Most orders ship the same day, the next at the latest. We do not 'drop' ship, we have our own massive warehouse of inventory right here on site. We use UPS, you'll get a tracking number emailed to you immediately, and we cover all shipping insurance automatically.
The Company. DRO PROS is a veteran owned, American company. We enjoy selling quality products at competitive prices. We believe that providing the best customer service is the key to success. No other company spends more time on the phone with customers than we do. Even in a down economy, our company continues to thrive and grow. We look forward to earning your business!
The Bottom Line. Our line of digital readout's are simply the most user friendly readouts on the planet. Because of our direct marketing structure, they're also extremely affordable. Coupled with our extensive customer service and affordable parts, our Digital Readout products are simply the best value on the planet.
Shipping:
Domestic Shipping to the United States: All digital readout shipping is done via UPS for a flat rate of $43. You'll get a tracking number emailed direct to you from UPS, enabling you to track your shipment door to door! We cover insurance against any potential shipping damages, so no hidden fees here!
International Shipping to Canada: All of our DRO shipping is done via UPS. We charge a flat fee of $80.
International Shipping elsewhere: All of our DRO shipping is done via the United States Postal Service via a flat rate of $140.
Industry Leading Unlimited Lifetime Warranty
Electronica magnetic kits = Unlimited Lifetime Warranty
DRO PROS brand warranty claims are handled directly by DRO PROS.
No run-arounds, no hassle!
At DRO PROS, we take care of our customers. Have an issue or need some help? Let us take care of it with a toll-free call to California!
Call us now at 1-707-452-8434
What type of lathe should I buy?
As the author of several books on woodturning, the designer of a lathe (the Conover Lathe, no longer in production) and a founding board member of the American Association of Woodturners (I’m member #004), it might be an understatement to say that people frequently ask my advice about which lathe to buy or which lathe is the best. They always want a simple answer, like “Buy an Acme Model XJ4, as purchased by Wile E. Coyote in the Warner Brothers ‘Road Runner’ cartoons.”
It’s not that simple. What you need depends on your budget, space and turning goals. Do you want to do mostly spindle turning (creating a cylindrical object)? Or faceplate turning (using a metal disc, the faceplate, to attach wood to your lathe so you can turn an item that can’t be secured simultaneously on the headstock and tailstock)? Will turning be your principal woodworking pastime, or are you buying a lathe to augment your general woodworking?
Types of Lathes
Today, lathes come in three flavors: mini, midi and fullsize, each with strengths and weaknesses that make them more or less appropriate for certain kinds of turning tasks.
For example, mini lathes are great for turning pens, small items and miniatures. Midi lathes are more appropriate for creating furniture spindles and medium bowls. And full-size lathes can tackle any turning task.
However, just as dog breeds range from chihuahuas to Newfoundlands but all share an essential “dog”-ness, there are elements that make a lathe a lathe.However, just as dog breeds range from chihuahuas to Newfoundlands but all share an essential “dog”-ness, there are elements that make a lathe a lathe.
Modern lathes have a bed made from cast-iron or welded steel, the top of which sports a set of ways: two parallel strips of constant width and spacing on which the headstock, tailstock and banjo (tool base) are mounted. While the headstock is fixed at one end of the bed, the tailstock and banjo are free to slide on the ways to suit the turner’s application. Lathes come with at least one tool-rest, a drive center, a live center and a faceplate.
It is fair to note that increases in price usually mean improvements in usability. As you pay more, the machine gets heavier, with friendlier controls. For example, very low-cost lathes tend to have levers on the banjo that collide with each other, making adjustment difficult. Paying more gets you a tailstock, banjo and tool-rest that lock without undue force being necessary.
If you’re in the market for a lathe, let’s look at what else you should be looking for.
Choosing a Lathe: Capacities That Matter
Spindle Diameter: All mini and midi lathes have a 1″ spindle with eight threads per inch. While this is more than adequate for turning furniture spindles and bowls up to about 12″ in diameter, it is not adequate for heavy faceplate work. That is because a 1″ spindle can flex between the headstock bearings with the high forces exerted during heavily laden faceplate work.
Therefore, most large lathes use either a 1-1/4″ or a 33 mm spindle (still with eight threads per inch). Converted to decimals, these spindle sizes are 1.250″ and 1.299″ — very close. What the .049″ difference does is to increase the rigidity over 1″ from 2.44 times to 2.85 times, because the stiffness of a round bar increases by a power of four as diameter increases. Small increases in diameter noticeably increase strength. Still, this is not enough difference to choose one spindle over the other.
Swing: Manufacturers list the “swing” measurement as twice the center height — what the machine will swing over the bed. The true swing of a lathe, however, is center height over the banjo, because this base for the tool-rest has to be under all spindles and most faceplate work. Two lathes with the same swing could have different banjo heights. Many manufacturers do now list swing over banjo as well as over the bed, but it pays to check.
If your primary goal is to spindle turn furniture parts, you are unlikely to need to turn bigger than a 4″ diameter, so a 6″ swing over the banjo is more than adequate.
Center to Center Distance: Between center distance is often listed as the measurement that results when calculating the distance from the lathe’s spindle nose to its tailstock nose, with the tailstock flush with the end of the bed. You need to realize though, that the drive and live centers needed to hold a spindle while you’re turning lessen this distance considerably. Many manufacturers are now listing the true between-center distance with the lathe’s supplied centers.
That being said, most supplied centers on mini and midi lathes are inferior. This is especially true of the live center; upgrading to a better one will lessen the center to center distance by as much as 3″. In most cases, you can also gain back an inch or two of space by hanging the tailstock off the bed by this amount.
If your goal is to use your lathe in a home workshop to spindle turn furniture parts, you’ll need a lathe that has 29″ to 36″ between centers.
Power and Speed Controller: Electric motor power ratings are often overstated. Generally, multiplying most mini and midi lathes’ stated power by about .75 will get you a lot closer to the actual power. The reason for this is that the maximum horsepower rating can only be maintained for a few seconds before the motor burns up. What really counts is the continuous rating.
The Europeans list motor power in kilowatts, a much fairer value of the continuous, or true, power. Since there are 745.7 watts in a horsepower, it is easy to figure out the horsepower from a kilowatt rating.
Mini lathes come with a 1/2hp motor, which is probably closer to 1/3hp but is more than adequate for this size lathe. Midi lathes typically are outfitted with a 1hp motor, but this delivers closer to 3/4hp at the spindle. The fact that almost all variable-speed mini and midi lathes have a DC (direct current) motor and controller contributes to this. Again, this is generally sufficient for home workshop and small furniture shop needs.
Modern full-size lathes have a minimum of a 1-1/2hp three-phase induction motor linked with a variable frequency drive (VFD). A VFD takes your single phase 60 hertz house current and converts it to three-phase current at any cycle rate between 2 and 60 hertz. Since the speed of an induction motor is controlled by the phase rate of the current, this allows accurate speed control with negligible loss in power at low speeds. DC motors and controllers, in contrast, have a more pronounced power drop-off at low speeds.
VFDs also allow a remote switch to be attached to the controller. This allows a second set of stop and start switches to be magnetically attached anywhere the turner deems convenient. This is both a nice convenience and a safety factor.
All 2hp and larger motors will require a 220-volt outlet. All mini and midi lathes will run on 120 volts.
Weight: When it comes to lathes, weight is considered advantageous. Vibration is inversely proportional to weight, so heavy cast-iron machines tend to soak up vibration. In the last 20 years, however, machines made from welded steel — especially the bed — have come to the forefront. If designed properly, the welds act like a crack in a wine glass and stop vibration.
Three Lathe Classes
As I mentioned earlier, today there is a broad offering of mini, midi and full-size lathes. Let us take a look at each of the categories in turn.
Mini Lathes: During the last decade of the 20th century, a number of manufacturers brought out small bench lathes with a short bed. Aimed at the rising tide of pen turners (the first pen kits came out in 1987), they were dubbed “mini lathes.” These small lathes found great popularity with model makers, teenagers and those just wanting to try turning without spending a fortune. Mini lathes typically have a 1″ – 8 spindle, 8″ to 10″ swings and 12″ to 15″ between centers.
The cheapest mini lathes only have four or five pulley steps for speed control; better ones have a DC motor and controller. While the only furniture part you can turn on the average mini is a knob, bed extensions are available for many of them. With a bed extension, a mini can be morphed into a bench lathe usable for most furniture work. If you just want to try turning, a mini can be a great first stepping stone to a great hobby. Likewise, it is a sensible choice if you have a child that wants to turn or if your ambitions are strictly pens and miniatures.
Midi Lathes: During the first 10 years of this century, many manufacturers beefed up the bed of their mini lathes and raised the 1″ – 8 spindle height to yield a 12″ or better swing. The delineation of mini being 10″ or smaller and midi being 12″ and bigger is now part of the popular lexicon. A midi lathe would be Goldilocks’ pick: not too big, not too small, enough center to center distance with a bed extension, adequate variable speed power and a reasonable cost. A recent trend is to also step the banjo and tool-rests up to 1″, which adds rigidity and allows swapping of tool-rests with bigger machines.
Midi lathes are, in fact, pretty much the standard workshop bench lathes of my youth with variable speed in almost all cases. Happily, almost all companies offer stands as well.
Typically, adding one extension increases the nose-to-nose distance between the spindles to between 36″ and 45″. A midi lathe is a great choice for furniture builders but is still great for pens and miniatures. You can turn tiny things on a big lathe, but not vice versa. Midis are also very adequate for bowl turning (if this is your goal, forget the bed extension). The 1″ – 8 spindle and power does limit the midi to light faceplate work: you can only turn bowls up to about 12″ in diameter.
Full-Size Lathes: The really big lathes in this category once catered to millwork shops and pattern makers, but today they are the choice of serious hobby turners, especially bowl turners. Most full-size lathes now sport modular beds that can be extended for very long work with swings over the bed as large as 24″.
This means they can turn anything from porch posts to huge bowls. All have a minimum of 1.5hp motors, but most sport 2hp, with 3hp being an optional upgrade. Industry standard is now VFD speed control. Full-size lathes can do it all.
Most of the full-size lathes now have the ability to slide the headstock close to the end of the bed, turning them into “bowl lathes.” The idea is to make the bed shorter, allowing the woodturner to stand where the headstock would normally be, giving them great access and leverage during turning. If you turn a lot of bowls, especially big ones, the advantage of this setup cannot be overstated. (Another solution is the ability to turn the headstock nose about 45˚. This allows slightly more faceplate swing and much better access during faceplate work, but it is not as good as a true bowl lathe.)
Setting Up Your Lathe
Once you’ve brought your new lathe home, it’s time to set it up. If it’s a mini lathe, one of the attractions for the small shop owner is that you can store it under a bench when not in use. When it comes to use, however, you will find the lathe works better if you affix it to the bench in some way. C-clamping each end or grabbing each end in the dogs of a workbench are great options. If you cannot clamp directly to the lathe, bolting the lathe to a 3/4″ piece of plywood that can then be clamped to the bench is a workaround.
When it comes to larger lathes, most shop owners place them against the wall. This may be all right for spindle work, but it limits faceplate work. I think it’s better to place a lathe away from, or at least at right angles to, a wall. You will need about 24″ of clearance between the headstock and the wall to accommodate the knockout bar.
Leveling Your Lathe
Proper leveling is probably one of the most overlooked factors in setting up a lathe. It should be level along the length of the ways and across the ways at each end. Across at each end is most important, because different states of level at each end of the lathe may introduce a twist into the bed (often the reason centers don’t align properly). A good builder’s level is a sufficient tool for this task. Simply adjust the leveling screws in the lathe’s stand or legs so that the ways are level end to end. Now, alternately place the level across the ways just in front of the headstock and at the opposite end, and adjust the screws until each end is dead level. It is best if you do not have to move the lathe after leveling.
Budgeting for Tools
When buying a lathe, you also need to budget for tool sharpening systems and tools — which tools depends on your woodturning goals. (Mini lathe users can get by with cheaper miniature tools.) I’ve compiled my recommendations for tools for both spindle and faceplate turning into a spreadsheet, available online.
I prefer to buy turning tools ad hoc, rather than in sets, which can include tools you will never use or workhorse tools in the wrong size. Avoid bargain basement carbon steel sets and, unless your turning ambitions are very modest, avoid carbide tools. Here’s why: If you just want to turn a few projects, they’re an economical choice because you will not have to buy a grinder and the jigs necessary to sharpen conventional tools. On the other hand, they’ll never leave the crisp edges, glassy surfaces or refined beads in spindle work that properly sharpened conventional tools will.
I suggest buying tools made from high-speed steel, or from powdered metal, which offers even more edge holding time between sharpening.
Yes, you will have to sharpen your tools, using a bench grinder to grind them to the proper shape. (They seldom come that way.) Buy as good a grinder as you can afford, such as a slow-speed grinder that comes with aluminum oxide wheels. A buffer is great for honing spindle tools after grinding.
Safety Equipment
You’ll also need to consider safety equipment and safe practices. Minimum eye protection for turning is eyeglasses, with side shields, that meet ANSI Z87.1 standards. If you wear prescription glasses, your optometrist can make you a pair that meet the Z87.1 standards, or you can wear clear glasses that meet the standard over your prescription glasses. An even better option is to wear a face shield that meets the Z87.1 standard — most actually exceed it.
Hearing protection during most turning is wise. Roughing out work, as you start your project and quickly remove material from your eventual bowl or a spindle, can emit sound over 80 decibels as the tool is alternately cutting wood and air.
Dust protection is most problematic around lathes, so anything that can be done to suck up dust before it gets into your lungs is good. You can put the hose from a HEPA vacuum near where you’re working to capture a lot of the dust. Back up this dust collection option by wearing an automotive type dust mask or, even better, a respirator.
And, when it comes to turning on your lathe, don’t be a speed demon. Faceplate work never needs to exceed 1,200 rpm, with 150 to 800 rpm for initial roughing.
Spindles up to 2″ need an initial speed between 500 and 1,400 rpm, depending on the skill and experience of the turner.
All this is to say that the lathe is just the tip of the iceberg. The best of lathes is useless without equally good tools. Many give up on turning because they never properly shaped and sharpened the tools, so a proper grinder and jigs are a necessity. I know a few turners who had to quit because they inhaled too much dust. Look at the total package, and not just the lathe.
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