How to Save Money When Buying anchor bolt installation

Original Post

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Jeff Lee

· Joined Jul · Points: 40

Jan 26, · Thousand Oaks, CA

Saw the comment on this page about how open shut anchor replacement is difficult and labor intensive. I'm wondering about what goes into such repairs. 

Browsing "permanent climbing anchors" on google shows that at least some anchors aren't very expensive. Is the cost pretty much just the time and skilled labor required? 

Parker Wrozek

· Joined Mar · Points: 86

Jan 26, · Denver, CO

Doing it right is pretty expensive....Most people don't donate time or money. So much of development is from people taking money out of their own pockets. 

Wherever you climb locally start giving them money to keep up with the maintenance. 

Jim Titt

· Joined Nov · Points: 490

Jan 27, · Germany

A lot depends on the context, replacing the bolts on Everest is going to be a lot more expensive than at a local single-pitch cliff with hand-drilling some multi-pitch backcountry route somewhere in between. A recent project I was involved with replacing 1,000 bolts in a sport climbing quarry done by rope-access guys ran in at around $15 per bolt. Top anchors probably $30-$45 depending on what´s being installed. 

I work on a base charge of around $10 per hole + travel/expenses and material for easier cliffs BUT a single top-anchor in a difficult position can easily be half a days work so getting into the $100´s.

Tony B

· Joined Jan · Points: 24,670

Jan 27, · Around Boulder, CO

Parker Wrozek wrote:

Doing it right is pretty expensive....Most people don't donate time or money. So much of development is from people taking money out of their own pockets. 

Wherever you climb locally start giving them money to keep up with the maintenance. 

The company is the world’s best anchor bolt installation supplier. We are your one-stop shop for all needs. Our staff are highly-specialized and will help you find the product you need.

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"them?"
You mean developers?

Well, if they are replacing stuff with modern stainless, sure, maybe.  But not so that they can just go put more stuff in, esp. if it is plated steel that will need replaced later.

Parker Wrozek

· Joined Mar · Points: 86

Jan 27, · Denver, CO

Tony B wrote:

"them?"
You mean developers?

Well, if they are replacing stuff with modern stainless, sure, maybe.  But not so that they can just go put more stuff in, esp. if it is plated steel that will need replaced later.

Sorry no. I meant ASCA, BCC (that is who I send money to), RRGCC, etc. The LCO that can actually get things replaced/maintained. 

I have given money directly to people as well. If you want to do that cool. 

I just meant that if you climb in Boulder Canyon and Clear Creek you really should be giving money to the BCC to help with bolt maintenance.  Insert wherever you climb normally if not in the Denver/Boulder area.  

eli poss

· Joined May · Points: 525

Jan 27, · Durango, CO

Parker Wrozek wrote:

Sorry no. I meant ASCA, BCC (that is who I send money to), RRGCC, etc. The LCO that can actually get things replaced/maintained. 

I have given money directly to people as well. If you want to do that cool. 

I just meant that if you climb in Boulder Canyon and Clear Creek you really should be giving money to the BCC to help with bolt maintenance.  Insert wherever you climb normally if not in the Denver/Boulder area.  

Keep in mind that not all climbing communities have a LCO. If that's the case where you're climbing, and you want to contribute, buy some stainless chain, quicklinks, rings, biners or whatever is used at your crag and either replace stuff yourself or give the hardware to the developer. If you don't want to put in this kind of effort, donate to the ASCA. 

Tony B

· Joined Jan · Points: 24,670

Jan 29, · Around Boulder, CO

Parker Wrozek wrote:

Sorry no. I meant ASCA, BCC (that is who I send money to), RRGCC, etc. The LCO that can actually get things replaced/maintained. 

I have given money directly to people as well. If you want to do that cool. 

I just meant that if you climb in Boulder Canyon and Clear Creek you really should be giving money to the BCC to help with bolt maintenance.  Insert wherever you climb normally if not in the Denver/Boulder area.  

Understood.
Yep, the BCC has that very active and fruitful program, and also will provide quality SS equipment to developers at pro-form/wholesale prices if they are willing to buy that instead of plated junk.

Full disclosure: I was on the BCC board for several years.

Any other ideas?

Also I was going to take advantage of the Zoro tool sale and buy anchors.
Here are the 2 different ones I was looking at.

http://www.zorotools.com/g/Carbon Steel Wedge Anchors//

http://www.zorotools.com/g/Wedge Anchors Zinc Plated Steel//

Both are 3/4 dia. and 7" long. However one is zinc plated and the other is not. Does it make a differance? The price is double for the zinc plated. Greg Smith Equipment sells the 7" anchors for $7.00 each. They are local so there would be no shipping. However I would save money ordering them from Zoro.


Any advice is greatly appreciated.

When I installed my lift I screwed up and should have drilled my holes deeper. I did not realize the bolts would pull up so far when they tightened. After I had my truck on it, I noticed the post were loose. I tightened them again but Im sure they will loosen more and to be honest with you, I dont feel safe under it. The directions that came with the lift are horrible. After searching the net, I found that most manufactors suggest you drill all the way through the foundation. Reason being if you ever need to move the lift,etc, you can just pound it clear through. The existing anchors are 5 1/2" wedge. I want to get them out and drill deeper then use 7" anchors. I was thinking of taking the nut off, then using a piece of pipe, make a spacer and screw the nut back on and tighten the hell out of it. Hopefully it will keep pulling up out of the concrete. If I had to guess I would say there is only about 3" or so in the concrete. In a way Im glad they are pulled up as far as they are because maybe they will be easier to get out.Any other ideas?Also I was going to take advantage of the Zoro tool sale and buy anchors.Here are the 2 different ones I was looking at.Both are 3/4 dia. and 7" long. However one is zinc plated and the other is not. Does it make a differance? The price is double for the zinc plated. Greg Smith Equipment sells the 7" anchors for $7.00 each. They are local so there would be no shipping. However I would save money ordering them from Zoro.Any advice is greatly appreciated.

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