Feb. 24, 2025
Agriculture
To select the right tubing for your project, you first have to know what type of tubing you need. Low-pressure tubing, for drip irrigation, can be broken down into three categories: mainline tubing, micro-tubing, and dripline tubing. Before describing the use of each type of tubing, it is important to first understand the basic rules and limitations of each type. Not adhering to these rules can result in a poorly functioning drip irrigation system.
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Regardless of the type of tubing selected for your project, there are two pieces of information that are critical when selecting tubing: run length and total flow rate. For example, what is the length your longest run of tubing needs to be? How many gallons per hour will your system be requiring? To choose the right tubing for your project, both factors need to be considered, but at this moment, let&#;s look at each separately.
Maximum run length is the longest length for which a certain size of tubing can maintain equal pressure. If the maximum run length is exceeded for a size of tubing, then the pressure supplied to each dripper or watering device will vary, and this can cause strange things to happen (e.g., water shooting out of drippers, no water coming out, etc.). Maximum run length varies for each size of tubing, so knowing how far you need to run tubing before ordering helps to make sure you order the right size for your project.
When selecting the right tubing size for your project, maximum run length is important, but the maximum number of gallons per hour (GPH) that a size of tubing can supply needs to be considered as well. Each size of tubing can only supply a certain number of gallons per hour before too much pressure loss begins to occur. To find the gallons per hour that you need in your system, you simply add up the output of all the watering devices. For example, if your system uses 40 .5-GPH drippers, 20 1-GPH drippers, and 2 adjustable drippers at 10 GPH, the total GPH used is:
Add the total for each dripper type (20 + 20 + 20) to give a grand total of 60 GPH
Once you know both of these factors, then it is easy to select the size tubing that best fits your project needs. Take, for example, a project that has a maximum run length of 20 feet and a flow requirement of 60 GPH. What tubing could be used? Take a look at this chart. PLEASE NOTE this chart is in reference to your mainline:
Tubing SizeMaximum Run LengthMaximum GPH Supplied1/4"30 feet30 GPH1/2"200 feet200 GPH3/4"480 feet480 GPH1"960 feet960 GPHYou can see that the run length allows for all sizes of tubing to be used, but because the total GPH needed is 60, this eliminates ¼&#; tubing because 60 GPH is more than double what ¼&#; tubing can supply (30 GPH). If ¼&#; tubing were used for this system, it would not function properly.
Note: If you think you may want to expand your system in the future, it is a good idea to start with one tubing size larger than your run length and gallons per hour require, in order to give you the flexibility to add to your system in the future.
Frequently Asked Questions About Tubing:
Mainline tubing (a.k.a. supply line tubing) acts as the water supply for your system. Mainline tubing starts at a water source and is then run as needed. Selecting the right size mainline tubing is important. To choose the right size mainline tubing, match your maximum run length and total gallons per hour needed with the chart above. Once the mainline is laid out in your system, water devices can be inserted directly into the mainline tubing or adapters can be inserted to run micro tubing, drip tape, or dripline away from the mainline tubing to the plants to be watered.
Micro-tubing is commonly used to describe ¼&#; tubing. It can be used as mainline tubing, but remember that it cannot be over 30 feet in length or supply more than 30 GPH. This works well for small patio areas, but beyond that micro-tubing is often used to take drippers or other watering devices from the mainline tubing to the plant to apply water directly to the root zone. A hole punch is used to create a hole in the mainline tubing (½&#; or greater) where one end of a connector is inserted; the other is connected to a run of ¼&#; micro-tubing. Even though the micro-tubing is not being used as mainline tubing, it still can&#;t stretch more than 30 feet away from the mainline tubing. Micro-tubing comes in either poly or vinyl rolls. Below we&#;ll briefly describe the pros and cons of each.
When buying drip irrigation tubing, the micro-tubing (1/8" or 1/4") is the only one that requires you to decide between poly or vinyl. Vinyl tubing is softer than poly and thus is considered easier to work with. Poly tubing may be a bit stiffer at first, but it does have some benefits. It withstands UV rays very well and does not expand, as much, when heated. Many of our customers in the hotter southern states (Texas, Arizona, New Mexico, etc.) have reported that their vinyl tubing began to pop off of the fittings after about 2&#;3 years of use. Due to the additives to make vinyl tubing softer, it softens much more than poly in the heat of the sun. This can cause the tubing to slip off the fittings after prolonged exposure to the sun. Poly micro-tubing is much more resistant to expansion and therefore less likely to come off the fittings or drippers.
Unfortunately, in the drip irrigation industry, there are no industry standards regarding tubing. Drip irrigation tubing is considered nominally sized. What this means is that tubing products manufactured by different manufacturers will not necessarily be the same size, even if they both say, for example, half an inch (½&#;). When adding to an existing system, it&#;s important to know the manufacturer of your tubing as well as the inside and outside diameter of the tubing you want to add to. To find out more about compatibility, check out our compatibility guide.
A dripline is a tubing that has emitters embedded directly into the tubing at preset spacings and dripper flow rates. Dripline tubing can save a lot of time, as there is no need to insert drippers. You simply lay out your dripline and connect it to your system. Dripline is available in ½&#; and ¼&#; tubing sizes with a limited number of standardized emitter spacings and emitter flow rates.
Note: The maximum run lengths for the dripline still apply (¼&#; 30 feet & ½&#; 200 feet). Below is a chart of available driplines and common uses for each
Tubing SizeMaximum Run LengthAvailable Spacing & Emitter CombinationsCommon Applications1/4" Dripline30 feet.5 GPH emitters every 6"We appreciate your feedback and welcome suggestions. We encourage you to contact us if you are not finding the information you are looking for in this article.
Buy components from the same manufacturer to ensure compatibility, or buy an entire drip irrigation kit and work your way up to a customized system.
Soaker hoses are the simplest way to create drip irrigation. These garden hoses have tiny holes along their length to allow water to drip out. While it's an initially cost-effective option, it uses more water than a drip system in the long run.
Kits combine the components you need for specific applications. You can find kits to create systems for vegetable gardens, flower beds, container plants and landscape plants like trees and shrubs. Some kits allow you to expand the system as your irrigation needs grow. Other kits provide repair parts or let you convert pop-up sprinklers for drip irrigation.
Backflow preventers or anti-siphon devices prevent the irrigation system's water from re-entering your water supply and contaminating your drinking water when the system is turned off, which is a requirement in most areas.
Pressure regulators or reducers make your home water pressure compatible with the drip line irrigation system. Without these devices, the typical home water supply has too much pressure for a drip irrigation system.
Filters prevent debris from clogging the tubing and emitters. Some pressure regulators have built-in filters.
Flexible tubing transports the water. Black or brown coloring allows the tubing to blend in with soil and mulch. Ultraviolet (UV) resistance protects the tubing from deterioration caused by the sun.
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Fittings connect system components.
Stakes secure tubing and support emitters to prevent them from being clogged by soil, debris or bugs. Some stakes have built-in emitters.
Risers elevate emitters above the tops of the plants.
Timers turn the water on and off at times you set. Timers can prevent overwatering, minimize wasted water and allow your system to function as an automatic watering system. Some can connect to home automation systems to control from a computer or smart device. Certain smart devices can even regulate watering schedules based on weather activity and provide reports on water usage, making them ideal smart home solutions.
Hole punches create insertion points in the tubing to connect emitters or smaller-diameter tubing.
Cutters make clean cuts in different sized tubing. Some cutters can also function as hole punches.
Plugs securely stop up any holes you punched by mistake. Plugs also allow you to move emitters without replacing the tubing.
Emitters insert into the tubing and discharge the water into the soil or onto plants. A gallons-per-hour (GPH) rating indicates the flow rate. The flow rate you need will vary depending on the type of plants you're watering and your soil type. Emitters have a rating for the maximum water pressure they can accept, noted in pounds per square inch (PSI). Pressure-compensating emitters deliver a constant flow rate even if the water pressure varies. Turbulent flow emitters feature a design that helps prevent clogging. Drip irrigation systems can include drippers, bubblers and misters.
You may want to have a professional install a drip irrigation system if you don't have the time to do it yourself. The information above gives you a good background for discussing the project, but what questions should you ask to make sure you get a system that's right for your landscape?
This isn't an exhaustive list and you may not need to ask all of the questions, but they'll give you a head start in coming up with a list that fits your project.
1: Can you tell me about your business?
Depending on the work they'll be doing, you'll want to know if the contractor is licensed, bonded and insured. It&#;s also a good idea to know how long the company has been in business and any certifications they have.
2: Can I get references from other clients?
References from previous installations can give you a comfort level that the contractor will do the job right and support you after installation.
3: What are the requirements for installing an irrigation system in this area?
Ensuring that the contractor is aware of local codes or requirements can indicate a level of professionalism and experience. It can also save you money for future work, since retrofitting a system to meet local codes may be costly.
4: Is drip irrigation right for me?
Be sure you've explained your irrigation needs in as much detail as possible. While drip irrigation offers a lot of benefits, there are some applications where a professional might recommend an alternative, such as an underground system.
5: What size system do I need?
If you have a clear plan of where you need irrigation, the plants you'll be watering, etc., your contractor can design a system that's sized perfectly and doesn't waste materials, labor or water.
If you think you'll want to expand the irrigation area in the future, let your contractor know so they can build expandability into their design.
6: What type of emitters are best for my soil?
How quickly water flows through the soil is a factor on the speed and volume of irrigation. Make sure the contractor has checked your soil type to plan accordingly.
7: What's your plan for the system?
It's good to know exactly how the contractor will design the system. Understanding the components of the system helps you ensure your plants get the water they need and can help you plan for repairs or upgrades in the future. It's a good idea to have a final plan of the system as it was installed, in case the contractor had to make changes to the original plan.
8: How much water can I expect the system to use each month?
You should understand the impact the system will have on your water bill so you can plan for the changes. Depending on your current method of watering your plants, you may even reduce water usage.
9: What's included in installation?
In addition to installation of the system, you'll need to know if the contractor has a plan to check for underground utilities. You'll want all the manufacturer's information (manuals, warranty information, part numbers, etc.), instructions for use and maintenance and a demonstration of how to use the system. You'll also want a list of everything purchased and installed.
Depending on the system, the irrigation area may need to be seeded or mulch may need to be reapplied. Find out if this work is included.
10: How do I winterize the drip irrigation system?
If winterization isn't covered in the instructions or demonstration, make sure you know the steps you'll need to take so you can plan ahead.
Contact us to discuss your requirements of drip line hose. Our experienced sales team can help you identify the options that best suit your needs.
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