May. 06, 2024
Agriculture
Are you eager to start a hydroponic gardening adventure but find yourself caught between two options? It's a classic dilemma: NFT or DWC? This blog will answer your questions and help you choose the hydroponic system that suits your needs and ambitions.
Hydroponics offers an innovative way to grow plants, and two popular methods, NFT and DWC, are gaining traction. NFT, or nutrient film technique, features a shallow stream of nutrient-rich water flowing over plant roots. In contrast, DWC, or deep water culture, suspends plants in a nutrient solution with submerged roots. The choice between these systems can significantly impact your hydroponic experience.
Let's delve into what it takes to get each system up and running:
Your choice of hydroponic system should align with the types of plants you plan to grow:
Both NFT and DWC hydroponic systems offer unique advantages and come with their own set of considerations:
Choosing between NFT and DWC hinges on your specific goals and resources. Here are some steps to help you make an informed decision:
Ultimately, whether you opt for NFT or DWC, your hydroponic journey will be rewarding. Remember that both systems have unique strengths and minor drawbacks. By understanding their differences and considering your plant preferences, you'll be well-equipped to make an informed choice. Whichever path you take, happy hydroponic gardening!
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Today we learn how to build an advanced hydroponic system in 7 steps. At the end, you also get a shopping list of all the items you need to build the system. If you feel that you are more of a beginner and want to start with a simpler system, you can also check out this guide for building a Deep Water Culture system.
In this article, we will build a Nutrient Film Technique system. It's a good system for both beginners and advanced users, allowing for easy automation and suitable for home hydroponics. You can easily apply hydroponics outdoors with this system.
Let's start!
The first step for the system is drilling holes into PVC pipes to hold the net cups. This can be done using a simple hole drill. Most net cups are conical, so their upper diameter is bigger than the lower part. This helps to drill holes that will hold the net cup and submerge most of it into the PVC pipe without the net cup falling into it. You should find the right size of net cups for the right size of pipe. The goal should be for the net cup to fully hang in the pipe without leaving too much space between the bottom and the pipe. Keep in mind that later you want your net cup to get wet from the water flow, at least in the first weeks of growing. Later, you can lower the water level. For our last system, we used net cups that are 68 mm (2.7 in) high for a PVC pipe with a diameter of 90 mm (3.5 in).
Another important factor is the distance of the cups. The plants need space next to each other to grow properly. This also depends on the type of plant. If you have short but broad plants, you might need more space between them than if you plan to grow long plants. Also, when drilling the holes and calculating the distances, keep in mind that you need to close the pipe at its ends, and the necessary fitting also takes space.
Step 1.1: Drill holes in PVC Pipe, taking care of the size and distance of the holes to accommodate your net cups and provide space for the plants.
The next step is to put on the lids/fittings for the PVC pipe. The fittings are usually glued, and the glue typically takes about 24 hours to dry. Ensure that the glue is waterproof and suitable for drinking water. Even if your nutrient solution won't be drinking water, you plan to eat your harvest. The same applies to the PVC pipes themselves.
Step 1.2: Put on PVC Pipe Lids
To finalize the PVC pipes, you also need to drill inflow and outflow holes for the hoses. The inflow hole is on the top of the pipe, where the holes for the net cups are, while the outflow hole is on the bottom. Make sure that the outflow hole fits exactly to the used hose; if not, you need to seal the connection of the pipe and hose to prevent losing nutrient solution. It is also helpful if you can adjust the height the hose protrudes into the pipe, which can be used to adjust the water level in the pipe later. In our system, the first inflow from the pump to the first PVC pipe is a smaller hose than all the pipe connecting hoses. This is a safety precaution to make it harder to flood the pipe and potentially lose nutrient solution.
Step 1.3: Drill Tube Holes in PVC Pipe
Pro Tip: If you can buy white pipes, you should do so. If not, we recommend painting them white to keep the internals cool. Most pipes are black, which can accelerate heating up the roots, potentially damaging them.
After finishing with the pipes, start constructing the overall structure for your system. We propose building a ladder-like rack, which is easy to build and can be leaned against a wall, offering both vertical and horizontal spacing.
Different builds are possible. Besides the ladder-like structure described above, you can create a pyramid-like structure, which is free-standing and can hold pipes on both sides, giving you more growth space. Regardless of the design, adhere to the following requirements:
Leave enough horizontal and vertical space between the pipes, giving your plants room to grow. The vertical construction provides considerable space compared to traditional gardening. Design your system based on the type of plants you want to grow, whether tall tomatoes or short salads.
The system will hold PVC pipes containing plants, roots, growth medium, and water, which can get heavy. Design a structure that can support these loads and accommodate future scaling. Plan for the initial number of pipes and potential future additions.
For natural water outflow to your reservoir, the reservoir must be lower than the lowest pipe. Avoid starting at ground level unless you can dig the reservoir into the ground. Plan for future reservoir scaling in your structure design.
With the pipes and rack ready, it's time to attach them. Use pipe clamps to secure the pipes to the rack.
Step 2.2: Add Pipe Clamps to Rack
When doing this, ensure the pipes create a downward angle for water flow. The size of the angle depends on whether you want continuous water flow or to maintain water in the pipes. If your pump operates continuously, use a larger angle. To combine the system with an ebb-flow method, use smaller angles and raise the hoses inside the pipes for a steady water level.
NFT vs. NFT combined with ebb-flow
We recommend a small angle and raising the hoses to maintain a consistent water level, preventing root burn on hot days and saving energy by not keeping the pump running constantly.
Once decided on the angle, attach the pipes to the rack.
Step 2.3: Attach Pipes to Rack
With the pipes and structure ready, set up the reservoir. The reservoir is standard for many hydroponics systems. Use a light-proof container to prevent algae growth, ensure it is large enough for a consistent water supply, and use a submersible pump capable of reaching the entry point of your system. If your system is 2 meters high, ensure the pump can handle that height.
Further reading:
Understanding Submersible Slurry Pumps
Vietnam Bamboo Stick Making Machine
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Step 3.1: Set up Reservoir
After setting up the reservoir, take care of all the hoses within the system. Create a zigzag flow to ensure water is flowing and prevent standing water. Water flow is crucial for oxygenation, brought about by splashes from dropping water. Raise the hoses slightly to create a constant water level in the pipes.
Step 3.2: Connect Pipes with Hoses
When connecting the pump to the system, use a thinner inflow hose than the outflow or through-flow hoses to prevent overflows. Although not a guarantee, it helps mitigate overflow situations.
Step 3.3: Connect Reservoir to System
With the system setup complete, it's time to add plants. Previous steps need to be done only once, while this step repeats each season or whenever you add new plants.
Transplant seedlings when their roots are long enough to reach the nutrient solution. The root length developed during the seedling phase is crucial.
Besides the seedling, you need a growth medium and clay pebbles. Good options include sponges with a cut inside, which helps in wrapping around the root. Ensure the plant isn't too deep in the net cup, and fill the net cup with pebbles that can absorb and hold the nutrient solution. After combining the seedling, medium, clay pebbles, and net cup, you are ready to place them into the pipes.
After transplantation, assemble the entire system, including the structure, pipes, reservoir, and seedlings.
The finished system
Now, it's time to take care of your plants' food. The essential metrics for a hydroponics system are pH and TDS. Use the Hydroplanner to derive applicable values for your plants. Ensure your reservoir and nutrient solution reflect those values. Use hydroponics fertilizer for the correct TDS value and a pH meter to adjust the pH to the desired level.
Monitor the nutrient solution regularly for pH and TDS to ensure optimal plant growth. Apart from the nutrient solution, manage the solution's flow using a timer for the pump.
Step 6: Add Nutrients and plug in Timer
We recommend short intervals with brief pumping durations to prevent overflow. Roots can clog hoses, making this a potential issue. Pumping for 2 minutes every 20 minutes can be a good starting point to ensure nutrients and prevent overflow. Adjust timing based on your system's size.
With the system complete, start growing various plants, vegetables, herbs, and fruits. Let the system run and experiment with different plants, growth mediums, structures, pipes, and sizes. Start growing and learning. Regularly check your vitals to maximize yields and plant health.
Step 7: Finished System
Below are photos of our system:
A nutrient-film-technique system on a wooden rack based on PVC pipes
A nutrient-film-technique system on a pyramid-shaped rack based on PVC pipes
This was a comprehensive DIY guide to build this system. Here’s a shopping list of all the materials mentioned:
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