Jan. 06, 2025
Apparel
The s represents the era in which the main and most sudden changes in terms of womens underwear took place and one of the most important figures in this regard was Caresse Crosby (-): an American activist, publisher, and writer, as well as the inventor of the bra. Like many successful inventions, it was born from a mix of necessity and chance when 19-year-old Caresse wanted to attend a ball avoiding the constriction of the corset, so she decided to combine two handkerchiefs and a pink ribbon, creating the first bra as we know it today. Soon, word spread among the other girls, who saw how the young woman moved gracefully and freely, which was otherwise impossible because of the corset. On November 3, , Caresse obtained a patent for the backless bra: the rest is history.
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Among the first designers to produce the bra, there was Paul Poiret, who is still remembered today for having created a new female image, free, natural, and sometimes exotic; the fabric of his clothes fell on the body with lightness, in a soft way. Even the fashion designer Lucy Christiana Duff Gordon, known as Lady Duff Gordon, unknown today to most, but at the time a great innovator, as well as the inventor of the catwalks with lights and music as we know them today, fully endorsed the cause, using the bra.
While the corset began to disappear, the knickers became more shortened until they became panties; born for the male counterpart in , soon they were also produced for women, who in turn engaged in the Great Wars, needed a much more comfortable and practical clothing to move and, above all, work: it was the beginning of womens emancipation. During World War II, bras were even offered by factories where, for the first time, women were called workers. In the s, the first cup sizes, from A to E, began to be created. But it was the invention of Nylon to bring bras to a wider audience: in fact, prices became more affordable, precisely because they were made with a cheap, durable, and solid fiber.
In the 50s, the curves of womens bodies were enhanced as never before, building the image of a sensual woman. The so-called pin-ups, for example, wore sexy underwear with balconette bras and guêpières (whose name comes from the French guêpe: wasp), which helped to give the idea of a narrow waist, wasp-like in fact; in the 60s instead, colored yarns began to be used also for lingerie and, while the spotlight shifted on briefs with the appearance of the miniskirt, bras were burned by feminists, who condemned the image of women that had lasted over the centuries: makeup, false eyelashes, padded garments and everything that served a purely aesthetic purpose was condemned. As a result, they led the manufacturers of underwear, and bras above all, to use softer materials and a more natural line, which would accompany the shapes of the body without modifying them.
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It was then in the 70s, with the appearance of TV series and female groups such as the famous Charlies Angels, that brands and advertisements proposed more casual ideals of women, photographed in underwear to show their beauty and sensuality. In the 80s, underwear was flaunted in all its forms, but as a symbol of emancipation, and not of constraint: how can we forget, for example, Madonnas iconic performances with pointed bras and corsets?
According to the Bible, Adam and Eve used completely natural products: they are said to have covered themselves with fig leaves out of shame so that no one could see their private parts. The idea of underwear was born.
It didn't have to be quite so natural for the Romans, as they already wore other clothes and didn't just want to protect their private parts from prying eyes. Under the toga, the Roman cloth cover, men wore a cloth, the subligaculum, which covered their genitals. How does the history of underwear continue?
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