Where should a relief valve be located?

What can go wrong?

Various issues can occur with the pressure-relief valve on a water heater. These problems can potentially lead to dangerous and costly scenarios, such as an explosion or flooding. Here&#;s a detailed breakdown:

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1. Pressure Buildup:

The primary role of the pressure-relief valve is to release excess pressure in the water heater tank. If the valve fails to do this, pressure can continue to build past safe limits, typically around 150 PSI (pounds per square inch). While the tank is designed to handle substantial pressure, there is a breaking point at which the tank can no longer contain the pressure and bursts. This is not merely a rupture; it can be a violent explosion, launching the tank like a missile and causing significant damage.

2. Flooding:

When a water heater tank bursts, it releases a large volume of hot water. If the heater is equipped with an emergency shut-off valve, this device will detect the burst and automatically shut off the water supply, mitigating some of the damage. However, without this emergency shut-off, the resulting flood can cause extensive and expensive water damage to a home or building.

3. Valve Failure:

The pressure-relief valve can fail for several reasons. It may become stuck or &#;frozen&#; due to rust, corrosion, or mineral deposits building up inside the tank and on the valve components. This buildup can prevent the valve from operating correctly. In other cases, the valve may remain stuck after releasing hot water during a previous pressure surge.

4. Neglect:

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A faulty pressure-relief valve may not be immediately noticeable to homeowners unless they regularly inspect and maintain their water heater. This lack of attention can allow problems to develop and escalate unnoticed.

5. Regular Testing and Maintenance:

Regular testing and maintenance are crucial to prevent these issues. The pressure-relief valve should be checked periodically, and the tank should be flushed at least once a year to remove any sediment build-up. If the valve is faulty or stuck, it should be replaced promptly.

6. Valve Replacement:

Homeowners should replace the pressure-relief valve every few years, or as recommended by the manufacturer, as a preventive measure. The frequency of replacement may need to be increased if the water heater operates under harsh conditions or the water supply is particularly hard or corrosive.

Your pressure relief valves (PRVs) are your most important line of defense against equipment damage, not to mention harm to your personnel, your plant, and the environment. Because of this, it&#;s important that you install and operate them correctly.

We get a lot of questions about the correct procedures for installing and operating PRVs. The guidelines below provide answers to the most common questions and solutions to the most common problems our customers have.

Pressure Relief Valve Installation

Mounting

• Mount PRVs in a vertical position, which means upright and with the spindle vertical. A valve installed in any position other than vertical might not perform correctly.
• For flanged valves, be sure to draw the bolts down evenly. This is especially crucial for cast iron valves. If you tighten one side all of the way and then the other, not only will you not be able to tighten it completely, but you could crack the valve.
• Avoid overtightening the valve. This can damage both the inlet and the outlet threads and cause leakage.
• Apply pipe dope to the male threads only. Pipe dope is a compound that prevents valves from leaking, but if you apply it to the female threads, it could contaminate your system.

Inlet piping

• The inlet piping should be short and direct. The inlet should never have a smaller diameter than the valve itself. This will constrict the flow of steam, air, or other media.
• The inlet should never be located near excessive turbulence on the vessel.

Outlet piping

• The outlet piping should always be supported. If it isn&#;t, it can weigh down and warp the valve, which will cause the valve not to seat properly. This can lead to excessive leakage.
• The nominal size of the outlet piping should be as large or larger than the valve outlet size. If it isn&#;t, the flow will be restricted and the valve won&#;t relieve as much capacity as it&#;s supposed to.
• The outlet piping should not produce any strain due to thermal expansion. As the medium expands, if the piping doesn&#;t have any give, the valve can warp and leak.

Pressure Relief Valve Operation

• Avoid operating the valve too close to the set point. Doing this can cause simmer and leakage. Once this starts, it will only get worse.
• Avoid testing your valve too often. Lifting the test lever too often can allow dirt or other foreign matter to get into the seat, which can cause the valve to leak. While regular testing is a recommended part of a preventative maintenance program, this should only be done about once a year, not once a month.

If you have any questions about your PRVs or need additional advice about installation or operation, contact us. At the end of the day, a PRV is a safety device, so it&#;s imperative you get it right.

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